Creating a Roll Collar Pattern- A Step-by-Step Guide to Drafting Fashionable Necklines

How to Draft a Roll Collar Pattern

Creating a roll collar pattern is a fundamental skill in pattern drafting, especially for those interested in designing garments with a classic and elegant neckline. The roll collar, also known as a mandarin collar, is a distinctive feature that adds a touch of sophistication to blouses, dresses, and suits. In this article, we will guide you through the process of drafting a roll collar pattern, ensuring that your designs are both accurate and stylish.

Understanding the Roll Collar

Before diving into the drafting process, it’s essential to understand the roll collar’s anatomy. A roll collar consists of a collar stand, collar facing, and collar roll. The collar stand is the vertical portion of the collar that sits against the neck, while the collar facing is the horizontal piece that covers the collar stand. The collar roll is the rolled edge that creates the characteristic roll effect.

Materials and Tools

To draft a roll collar pattern, you will need the following materials and tools:

– Pattern paper or fabric
– Ruler
– Pen or pencil
– French curve
– Tracing wheel
– Seam gauge
– Scissors

Step 1: Draft the Basic Neckline

Start by drafting the basic neckline for your garment. This will serve as the foundation for the roll collar. Draw a straight line across the desired width of the neckline, and then connect it to the shoulder seam. Label this line as the neckline.

Step 2: Add the Collar Stand

To create the collar stand, measure the desired height from the neckline to the collar stand’s top edge. Draw a horizontal line at this measurement, and then connect it to the shoulder seam. This line will form the top edge of the collar stand.

Step 3: Draft the Collar Facing

The collar facing is the horizontal piece that covers the collar stand. Measure the desired width of the collar facing, and draw a line at this width, parallel to the collar stand’s top edge. Connect this line to the shoulder seam, creating the collar facing.

Step 4: Create the Collar Roll

To create the collar roll, measure the desired depth of the roll. Draw a line at this depth, perpendicular to the collar facing’s top edge. Connect this line to the collar stand’s top edge, creating the collar roll.

Step 5: Add Seam Allowances

Add seam allowances to all edges of the collar pattern, including the collar stand, collar facing, and collar roll. This will ensure that your garment has the correct fit and ease.

Step 6: Finalize and Trace the Pattern

Review your draft to ensure that all measurements are accurate and that the pattern pieces are properly aligned. Once you are satisfied, trace the pattern onto your pattern paper or fabric, and make any necessary adjustments.

Conclusion

Drafting a roll collar pattern is a rewarding skill that can elevate your garment designs. By following these steps, you can create a custom roll collar pattern that complements your desired style and fit. Happy drafting!