How to Remove Darts from a Pattern
Embarking on the journey of pattern making and garment construction can be both exciting and challenging. One of the common tasks that beginners often encounter is the removal of darts from a pattern. Darts are used to shape the fabric around areas of the body that are not perfectly circular, such as the bust or the hip. However, sometimes the dart may not be necessary or could be causing discomfort. In this article, we will guide you through the process of how to remove darts from a pattern, ensuring that your final garment fits comfortably and flatteringly.
Understanding the Purpose of Darts
Before we delve into the process of removing darts, it is important to understand their purpose. Darts are small, triangular pieces of fabric that are sewn into a pattern to create a curve or to gather fabric in a specific area. They are commonly used in the bust, waist, and hip areas of garments. The primary function of darts is to add fullness and shape to the garment, ensuring a better fit.
Identifying the Dart
The first step in removing a dart from a pattern is to identify it. Look for a triangle-shaped piece of fabric on your pattern. This is the dart. It will typically be marked with a small triangle symbol or a line indicating the dart’s position. Once you have located the dart, you can proceed to the next step.
Calculating the Dart Reduction
Before you remove the dart, it is essential to calculate the amount of reduction you want to make. This will depend on the specific garment and the desired fit. To calculate the dart reduction, you will need to measure the original dart width and compare it to the finished garment measurement. Subtract the finished garment measurement from the original dart width to determine the amount of reduction needed.
Marking the Dart Reduction
Once you have calculated the dart reduction, mark it on the pattern. This can be done by drawing a line across the dart, indicating the new width. Be sure to measure and mark the reduction accurately to ensure a proper fit.
Redrawing the Dart
After marking the dart reduction, it is time to redraw the dart. Start by drawing a new line from the apex of the dart to the new mark you have made. This line will be the new dart. Be sure to keep the angle of the dart consistent with the original to maintain the garment’s shape.
Adjusting the Pattern Pieces
Once the dart has been redrawn, you will need to adjust the pattern pieces. This involves removing the excess fabric from the dart area and reshaping the pattern to accommodate the new dart. Use a ruler and a sharp pair of scissors to carefully trim away the excess fabric, being careful not to distort the pattern.
Testing the Pattern
After making the adjustments, it is important to test the pattern before cutting into your fabric. Trace the new pattern onto a piece of paper or cardboard and cut it out. Pin the pattern to a muslin or a fitting garment to ensure that the fit is correct. Make any necessary adjustments to the pattern before cutting your final fabric.
Conclusion
Removing darts from a pattern is a valuable skill for any garment constructor. By following these steps, you can create a custom fit for your garments and ensure comfort and style. Remember to take your time and measure accurately to achieve the best results. Happy sewing!
