Step-by-Step Guide to Drafting a Basic Bodice Pattern- A Comprehensive Tutorial
How to Draft a Basic Bodice Pattern
Drafting a basic bodice pattern is an essential skill for anyone interested in fashion design or dressmaking. Whether you’re creating custom garments for yourself or for others, understanding how to draft a bodice pattern from scratch can save you time and money in the long run. In this article, we’ll guide you through the process of drafting a basic bodice pattern, step by step.
Understanding the Bodice
Before diving into the drafting process, it’s important to have a clear understanding of what a bodice is. A bodice is the upper part of a garment that covers the chest and upper back. It is typically fitted to the body and provides structure to the garment. The bodice can vary in style, from a simple, straight cut to a more complex design with darts, gathers, or shaping.
Materials and Tools
To draft a basic bodice pattern, you’ll need the following materials and tools:
– A piece of white paper or pattern paper (at least 18×24 inches)
– A ruler or measuring tape
– A pair of sharp scissors
– A fabric pencil or chalk
– A pattern board or a flat surface to spread out your paper
– A tracing wheel and carbon paper (optional)
Measuring Yourself
The first step in drafting a basic bodice pattern is to measure yourself. You’ll need to take the following measurements:
– Bust circumference: Measure around the fullest part of your bust, just under your arms.
– Waist circumference: Measure around the narrowest part of your waist.
– Hip circumference: Measure around the fullest part of your hips.
– Shoulder width: Measure from one shoulder tip to the other.
– Armhole depth: Measure from the shoulder tip to the point where your arm bends at the elbow.
Drafting the Basic Bodice Block
Now that you have your measurements, it’s time to draft the basic bodice block. Follow these steps:
1. Draw a vertical line on your paper to represent the center back of the bodice. This line should be 8 inches long.
2. From the center back line, measure down 1 inch and mark the point. This will be the bottom of the bodice block.
3. Draw a horizontal line from the bottom of the center back line to the right side of the paper. This line will represent the side seam.
4. Measure your bust circumference from the side seam to the center back line and mark the point. This will be the bust point.
5. From the bust point, measure down to the bottom of the bodice block, ensuring the distance is equal to your armhole depth.
6. Connect the bust point to the bottom of the bodice block with a smooth curve to create the armhole shape.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 on the left side of the paper to create the second side of the bodice block.
8. Connect the two side seams to the center back line to complete the bodice block.
Adjusting the Basic Bodice Block
Once you have your basic bodice block, you may need to make adjustments to fit your body. Common adjustments include:
– Adding or taking away width at the side seams
– Lengthening or shortening the bodice
– Shaping the bust area with darts or gathers
Conclusion
Drafting a basic bodice pattern is a fundamental skill that can be used to create a wide variety of garments. By following these steps and practicing your drafting techniques, you’ll be well on your way to creating custom, fitted garments that flatter your body. Happy drafting!
