Mastering the Art of Altering Pants- A Step-by-Step Guide to Flat-Felled Side Seam Refinement

How to Alter Pants with Flat Felled Side Seams

Embarking on a sewing project often involves making alterations to existing garments to fit better or to personalize them. One common alteration is adjusting the side seams of pants, particularly when using a flat felled seam technique. A flat felled seam is a type of seam where the raw edges are overlapped and stitched down, creating a clean, flat finish on the inside of the garment. In this article, we will guide you through the process of how to alter pants with flat felled side seams, ensuring a professional and durable result.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials

Before you begin, gather all the necessary materials and tools. You will need your pair of pants, fabric scissors, pins, a sewing machine, matching thread, a seam ripper, and a ruler. It’s also helpful to have a pair of fabric chalk or a washable fabric pen for marking the alterations.

Step 2: Measure and Mark the New Seam Line

Start by laying your pants flat on a clean surface. Use a ruler to measure the desired width for the new side seam. Pinch the excess fabric at the side seam to create a new seam line that fits your body better. Mark this new line with your fabric chalk or pen, ensuring it is even on both sides of the pants.

Step 3: Remove the Old Seam

Using the seam ripper, carefully remove the old side seam. Be sure to go slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the fabric. Once the old seam is completely removed, press the side seams flat to remove any wrinkles.

Step 4: Cut the New Seam Line

With the side seams pressed flat, use your fabric scissors to cut along the new seam line you marked. Make sure to cut through both layers of fabric and the seam allowance.

Step 5: Trim the Seam Allowance

Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch (6 mm) on both sides of the new seam line. This will ensure that there is enough room for the fabric to fold over and overlap when creating the flat felled seam.

Step 6: Press the Seam Allowance

Press the seam allowance open and flat with an iron. This step is crucial for creating a clean and even flat felled seam.

Step 7: Pin the Seam Together

Fold the right side of the fabric over the left side, aligning the raw edges. Pin the seam together, ensuring that the pins are inserted through the seam allowance and not the stitching line. The pins should be spaced evenly to keep the seam straight.

Step 8: Stitch the Seam

Using a 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance, stitch the seam together using a straight stitch. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to secure it.

Step 9: Trim the Seam Allowance

Once the seam is stitched, trim the excess seam allowance, leaving a 1/4 inch (6 mm) tail at the beginning and end of the seam.

Step 10: Turn the Seam

With the seam still pinned, carefully turn the seam allowance to the inside of the pants. Use a seam roller or the end of a knitting needle to push out the corners for a crisp finish.

Step 11: Press the Seam

Press the seam flat with an iron, ensuring that the stitching is on the inside of the pants. The flat felled seam should now be visible on the outside of the pants, providing a clean and professional look.

Conclusion

Altering pants with flat felled side seams is a skill that can elevate your sewing projects. By following these steps, you can achieve a durable and visually appealing seam that adds a touch of sophistication to your garments. With practice, you’ll be able to make precise alterations to your pants, ensuring they fit perfectly and reflect your personal style.