Understanding Seam Allowance- How to Incorporate It into Your Pattern Design

Do you add seam allowance to pattern?

Adding seam allowance to a pattern is a crucial step in garment construction, as it ensures that the final product fits comfortably and allows for the necessary adjustments during the sewing process. Seam allowance refers to the extra fabric added to the pattern edges to accommodate the seams. This article will delve into why seam allowance is important, how to calculate it, and the different types of seam allowances used in pattern making.

Why is Seam Allowance Important?

Seam allowance serves several purposes in pattern making and garment construction. Firstly, it provides room for the needle to pass through the fabric without causing damage. This is particularly important for woven fabrics, which can be prone to fraying. Secondly, seam allowance allows for the necessary stretching and relaxation of the fabric during the sewing process. This is crucial for achieving a good fit, as the fabric may need to be stretched or pulled to fit the body. Lastly, seam allowance provides a margin for error, allowing for adjustments and alterations to the garment if needed.

How to Calculate Seam Allowance

The standard seam allowance for most garments is 1.5 cm (5/8 inch), but this can vary depending on the type of fabric and the desired fit. To calculate the seam allowance, you can simply add the desired width to the pattern edges. For example, if you want a 1.5 cm seam allowance, add 1.5 cm to each edge of the pattern piece.

Different Types of Seam Allowances

There are several types of seam allowances used in pattern making, each serving a specific purpose:

1. Regular Seam Allowance: This is the most common type of seam allowance, used for most garment construction. It provides a standard amount of fabric for the seams.

2. French Seam Allowance: This type of seam allowance is used to create a clean finish on the inside of the garment. It involves folding the fabric twice and stitching in the fold, which conceals the raw edges.

3. Trimmed Seam Allowance: This type of seam allowance is used when a garment requires a narrow seam. It involves trimming the seam allowance down to a smaller width before stitching.

4. Flat Seam Allowance: This type of seam allowance is used for flat-felled seams, which are commonly used in denim and sportswear. It involves creating a diagonal seam that appears flat on the outside of the garment.

Conclusion

Adding seam allowance to a pattern is an essential step in garment construction, ensuring a comfortable fit and a professional finish. By understanding the different types of seam allowances and how to calculate them, you can create patterns that are both functional and aesthetically pleasing. So, the answer to the question “Do you add seam allowance to pattern?” is a resounding yes!